How to Change the Oil on a Can-Am Maverick X3?

Changing the oil in your Can-Am Maverick X3 doesn’t have to be a difficult task if you know how to follow a pretty basic set of instructions!

Add on the right tools and a little bit of patience, and you’ll be able to tackle an oil change on your own, saving yourself the hassle (and cost) of taking it to a mechanic. Stick with me, and I’ll walk you through the whole process so you can make sure your Maverick is running at its best!

Tools & Materials Needed

Before you get started, I recommend making sure you have all the right tools and materials on hand. The last thing you want is to get halfway through and realize you're missing something crucial. Here’s what you’ll need:

Oil:

● XPS 10w-50 Full Synthetic Oil for the engine (you’ll need 3.7 quarts).

● XPS 75w-140 Synthetic Gear Oil for the transmission (about 1.75 quarts).

Tools:

● Funnel: To pour in the fresh oil without making a mess.

● Vacuum Pump: For removing the old oil, especially since the Maverick X3’s engine makes this process a bit more difficult.

● Air Saw (if necessary): If you need to modify the skid plate for better access to the drain bolts.

● Ratchet & Socket Set: You’ll need a 17mm and a 10mm socket for the drain bolts.

● Form-a-Funnel: To avoid spills when draining your oil.

● Pig Mat: Place this around the oil filter area to catch any drips when you remove the filter.

● New Oil Filter Element: Don’t forget to replace the filter while you’re at it!

● O-Rings and Crush Washers: Necessary for sealing the filter housing and drain bolts.

Optional:

● Work Gloves

● Flashlight

● Catch Pan

You may even consider getting some kitty litter to clean up any spills and a piece of hose to make the oil-refilling process easier.

Preparing the Vehicle

Now, we want to make sure both you and your Maverick X3 are in a good workspace.

Parking and Safety

Your Maverick X3 should be parked on level ground so that the oil drains properly. Once it’s parked, engage the parking brake and make sure the engine has cooled down completely.

Changing oil on a hot engine can be dangerous.

Positioning Tools

Next, gather all the tools you need and make sure they’re within easy reach. This includes your vacuum pump, oil filters, sockets, and the funnel.

Location Check

Before you get your hands dirty, take a moment to inspect the vehicle. Look for any obvious leaks or signs of wear, like cracks or loose components. If there’s anything concerning, it’s better to spot it now than halfway through the oil change.

Draining the Old Oil & Replacing the Oil Filter

At this point, you’re ready to tackle the messy part—draining the old oil and swapping out that filter.

Accessing the Engine Oil Drain

To get to the oil fill cap, grab your flashlight and shine it just above the left rear tire, near the middle of the engine. You’ll see the orange cap that doubles as your dipstick.

Once you've found it, remove the oil fill cap to start the draining process. To get the majority of the old oil out, you’ll want to use your vacuum pump. Check out this video to see how it’s done!

Draining the Oil from the Drain Bolts

Next, locate the two drain bolts located just behind the skid plate. If you want to reach them the “normal” way, you’d have to remove the entire skid plate, which can be a huge pain.

Instead, I recommend using an air saw to make a small cut in the skid plate (about 2x3 inches) to give yourself just enough space to work. This will allow you to access the two drain bolts without any hassle.

It’s a MacGyver-style move, but it does the job!

Once you’ve got the space, grab your 17mm and 10mm sockets and start draining. The 17mm bolt will let the engine oil flow out, while the 10mm is for the transmission oil. After you’ve drained everything, be sure to replace the old crush washers with new ones to prevent leaks when you put everything back together.

Once everything’s drained, tighten the bolts back into place.

Replacing the Oil Filter

From there, locate the oil filter housing on the passenger side of the engine, just in front of the rear tire. To get to it, remove the three bolts holding the filter cover in place.

Once the cover is off, grab a magnet to help you pull out the oil filter element. Sometimes it can get a bit stuck, so the magnet will make your life a whole lot easier. With the old filter out, you can drop in the new one. Be sure to install the new O-rings around the filter housing to keep everything sealed.

Once the filter is in place, torque the three bolts to about 8 lb-ft to ensure they’re snug.

Refilling with Fresh Oil

Alright, you’ve drained the old oil, swapped out the filter, and now it’s time to top off your Maverick X3 with some fresh juice!

Prep your oil funnel by taking a 5/8-inch hose and feeding it through the rear tray so you can funnel the oil into the engine’s oil fill tube. It’s way less messy than trying to pour it in directly.

Now, slowly pour in your fresh XPS 10w-50 full synthetic oil. You’ll probably use around 3.7 quarts. Once the oil is in, double-check your level by using the dipstick.

Transmission Oil

The process for the transmission oil is (sigh) much simpler. Underneath the rig, you’ll find the transmission drain plug. Unscrew it and let the oil drain out into your catch pan. Check the magnetic drain plug for any large debris. If it’s clean, wipe it off and replace the crush washer before reattaching the bolt.

For the refill, use 1.75 quarts of XPS 75w-140 synthetic gear oil. Once you’ve added the new oil, tighten the fill plug and torque everything to the recommended specs (22 lb-ft for the transmission drain bolt).

Final Checks & Cleanup

Give yourself a pat on the back, as you’ve made it through the hard part! Before you call it a day, however, you’ll want to do some final checks and clean up.

Start up your engine and let it run for a few minutes. While it’s running, keep an eye on the area around the oil filter and drain bolts for any signs of leaks. If you notice any, don’t panic. Just turn off the engine and tighten everything a little more.

Once everything looks good, do a quick wipe down of any areas that might have gotten oil on them, and be sure to properly dispose of the used oil and filters. Most auto parts stores or recycling centers have disposal facilities for used oil, so take advantage of them!

Conclusion

There you have it! The beauty of learning how to replace the oil on your Can-Am Maverick X3 is that once you’ve done it once, it’ll be easier each time after. Plus, you’ll save tons of money!

And while you’re down there, you might consider lubricating your wheel bearing with our 39mm Wheel Bearing Grease Tool, made specifically for the Can-Am Maverick X3! It’ll keep your UTV running like a champ.

Now, you’re ready to hit the trails!

FAQs

Q1: How often should I change the oil on my Can-Am Maverick X3?

A1: Can-Am recommends changing engine oil every 50 hours of operation or at least once a year, whichever comes first. As for your transmission oil, change it every 100 hours or once a year.

Q2: Can I use any oil for my Maverick X3?

A2: For optimal performance, it’s best to use the recommended XPS 10W-50 full synthetic oil for the engine and XPS 75W-140 synthetic gear oil for the transmission.

Q3: What’s the best way to dispose of used oil?

A3: Used oil is harmful to the environment, so make sure to dispose of it properly. Many auto parts stores, mechanic shops, and recycling centers offer oil disposal services.

 

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